STEERING RACK INSTALLATION

        I installed a rebuilt rack in my 87 over the last
weekend. I was dreading the job, but it turned out to be a
very easy install, just a bit messy though. the old rack had
blown seals at both ends of the rack body. Leaking very bad.

REMOVAL:
        To start the process, I had to remove the fluid from the
power steering system. I did that by opening the low pressure
return line (to the pump) and placing both ends of the break
in a container to catch the fluid.  I then took the drive
belt off the pump and turned the pump by hand to assist in the
removal of the fluid. this pushed the fluid out of the system
into the catch container. then I rotated the pump backwards and
it spit some out the other hose. After getting as much out as I could,
I reconnected the hose.
        I then raised the front of the car up and placed it on stands,
and removed the road wheels. I set the wheels straight ahead. Clean
the steering box area of the rack, getting all the grit you can off of
the hoses.
        I examined the tie rod ends to see where the threads were just
so I could do a quick toe set when done. then I unthreaded the inner
tie rods from the outer tie rods. an alternative would be to take the
outer tie rods off of the spindle. I just unthreaded one from the
other.
        Then I unbolted the two bolts that hold the rack to the front
k-member/frame. then the steering column flex joint must be unbolted.
this is easy to reach from below the car, just aft of the rack.
        A shot of WD-40 on the rack bushings should make it
easier in getting them apart from the frame. let it set a bit, then
pop the rack away from the frame. you can only go so far because the
hoses are still attached to the rack.
        Get two plastic baggies and tie-wraps. Undo the two lines
feeding to the rack and as you remove them, place the baggies over
the hose ends. Keeps the fluid off of your hair. then you can yank the
rack out of the car.

PRE-INSTALLATION:
        Clean the hose lines well. Replace the o-rings and the teflon
seals on both ends. (these items are generally provided with the new
rack.)

HINT #1: the teflon seals are smaller than the fittings they must
go over. to expand them, take a tube of calk, or like material that
has the long plastic tapered application tube on the end. Slide the
teflon seals over the tapered tube, expanding them. then QUICKLY
remove them from the tube, and put them over the fitting.

HINT #2: Mustang racks have limiters inside the rubber bellows to keep
us from putting our tires/wheels into the lower control arm. New racks
DO NOT have these limiters installed. You can use the ones from the
old rack. Just slide the rubber bellows off the end of the rack body,
and turn the steering so the rack moves the bellows away from the
body, exposing the socket for the inner tie rod end. Right next to the
socket, on the inner side, it is a large plastic c-clip snapped over
the rack. Remove it and transfer it to the new rack. do the same for
the other end.

HINT #3: flush the pump with clean fluid. Use the same process as used to
empty it.

INSTALLATION:
        Just the reverse of removal. Just a couple of hints...
--after you hook up the steering column, check to see that you have
the same amount of rotations from the steering wheel dead center to
the stops. adjust as necessary by disconnecting the rack from the
steering column and repositioning and reattaching.
--if you forgot the steering limiters, you can install them with the
rack on the car. Just pull the boot back and turn the wheel till the
socket is exposed. snap the clips on the rack.

Summary----took about 2 hours. Saved $170 in installation labor. the
rack was only $142 for a rebuilt TRW unit from Pep Boys. Add some
fluid, and several baggies, and it is not an expensive job at all.